Tag Archives: Botswana

GuidePost: An Interview with Guide Extraordinaire, Dean Wraith

They say you always remember your first, well my “first” was Dean Wraith. I am, of course, talking about my first safari guide and our first trip to the Mala Mala Game Reserve in December 2009. Mala Mala is located in the northeast corner of South Africa in an area known as the Sabi Sands. It shares a 12 mile long unfenced border with the west side of the renowned Kruger National Park. Wildlife is abundant and Mala Mala is especially known for its healthy leopard population. The “Big Five” (Elephant, Lion, Leopard, Rhino and Cape Buffalo) are almost guaranteed to be seen. If you are fortunate, you may also get a chance to participate in a Wild Dog chase or see the more elusive Cheetah. So what makes the difference between a good safari and a great safari? I believe the answer is simple, your guide. This is the person who wakes you up in the morning and puts you to bed at night, just without the sleeping part.

Dean Wraith (left) and Hans van Heerden taking a break between jackal shots.

Dean Wraith (left) and Hans van Heerden taking a break between jackal shots.

I now consider us somewhat experienced “safarians” having traveled to the African continent three times with two trips to Mala Mala, two trips to Duba Plains (Botswana), two trips to Selinda Camp (Botswana)  , one trip to Zarafa Camp (Botswana) and one trip to Savute Safari Lodge in Chobe National Park (Botswana). The camps each offer their own unique experience with differences in flora and fauna, and the guides put their own twist on that experience. We have had three guides, in particular, whose passion and expertise made our safari experience with them extraordinary.

My first “Guide Post” is an interview with Dean Wraith. In addition to being a guide/ranger, he is a talented photographer who always angled our open air vehicle so that Evan could get the best shots possible. His keen sense of anticipating the animals’ moves and moods made all the difference. I give him extra kudos because we shared a vehicle with another serious wildlife photographer and her husband. We were always the first vehicle out in the morning and the last to return at night. The camaraderie was so good amongst the five of us that we returned the following year with this same Dutch couple to share another vehicle, again with Dean at the helm.

Dean and Hans taking a closer look at an elephant skull we discovered in a dry river bed.

Dean and Hans taking a closer look at an elephant skull we discovered in a dry river bed.

Lisa: A bit on your background; where did you grow up and did you get to spend time in the bush at an early age?
Dean: I grew up on the East Coast of South Africa in an area called Zululand. My earliest memories of the bush are visiting the Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Game Reserve with my family. I was lucky enough that it was only a couple hours from home and we would go on a regular basis.

Lisa: What inspired you to become a guide? Was there any particular person or experience that motivated you to move in this direction?
Dean: Guiding was never my first choice and to be honest I didn’t really have an idea what or how guiding worked. In my final year of studying we had a change in lecturer; Chris Galliers came in and changed my perspective on what was available out there. He suggested we think about guiding as a path after we finished and he helped me get an interview and ultimately my first guiding job at Mala Mala Private Game Reserve. Chris was a guide at Mala Mala himself.

Lisa: What kind of training/certification do you need to become a guide? What does it entail? Are there a lot of programs available in South Africa to accomplish this?
Dean: I did a Diploma in Game Ranging and Lodge Management. Within that we had the opportunity to complete a number of FGASA levels and qualifications. FGASA is the Field Guides Association of Southern Africa and they set the standards for guiding qualifications. I specifically went through a training provider called Eco-Training. There are more and more training providers popping up as the need for more guides increases. I think the most important thing it comes down to when choosing which provider you will go with is the instructors. They make all the difference, they give you the base to be able to build and develop.

Lisa: How did you come upon the Mala Mala opportunity? What is the most challenging aspect of the job? What do you love most about it?
Dean: Our lecturer at college helped me get the interview and recommended two of us for the job, both of us were hired and we started early November 2007. All in all I spent around 4 years at Mala Mala on and off. The most challenging part is finding a balance. What I love most about the job…THE JOB. I count myself incredibly lucky to have had the opportunity to have worked at Mala Mala.

Lisa: Provide some detail about “a day in the life” of a Mala Mala guide.
Dean: I think what makes Mala Mala such a unique safari experience is the freedom to spend as much time in the bush as you want and that means that no 2 days are the same. But on your average day most rangers will wake up between 5h00 and 5h15. Then it’s a quick shower and shave and wake-up calls before heading down to make sure the vehicle is prepped and ready to go before having a few cups of coffee on the deck. After the caffeine fix you head out on game drive which normally lasts anywhere from 3 to 4 hours. Then it’s time for a bite to eat with your guests, breakfast is a great opportunity to chat about the drive and gives the guests a chance to elaborate on some of their questions from early or get a little more information on some of their favourite topics. After breakfast is normally a bit of a walk with the guests just to stretch the legs and help get the digestive process on the go. Then there is an opportunity to get some down time before lunch, normally this is a good opportunity to go through some photos or get in some exercise or just relax and watch a series or 2. Lunch is next and this is normally a very relaxed affair with either it being your first meal with new guests or a chance to get to know your stay over guests a little more. After lunch is a good time to sneak in a quick power nap. After catching up on your much needed beauty sleep it’s time for a little afternoon tea and then back out into the bush. Evening game drives again vary anywhere between 3 and 4 hours again. Getting back from drive there is normally time for a quick shower then down to the bar for a pre-dinner drink and a chance to start unwinding. Dinner is normally more of an event with singing and 5 courses and good wine so it ends up being the most festive meal. After walking the guests back to their room after dinner it’s time for some good shut eye and the day is done.

Lisa: So you are basically “on” about 18 hours a day for weeks on end. How many weeks do you work before you have a break in your schedule?
Dean: We worked a standard 8 weeks on and 2 weeks off. Now it has moved to 6 weeks on and 2 weeks off.

Lisa: You mention “striking the right balance” – how easy or difficult is it to move from living six to eight weeks in the bush to an urban environment? Is one transition more difficult to make than the other?
Dean: It was definitely more difficult to transition back to normal life in the city. Just trying to get back into a normal routine was tough, but then dealing with everything that comes with city life is tough.

Lisa: So here’s my big question, what makes a good guide?
Dean: I think passion is really important, having a deep love for what you do is key. Otherwise I think the routine and constant dealings with people can become overwhelming. Then things like a good all-round knowledge base, good bush skills, people skills, humility and professionalism are all important.

Lisa: I can think of a couple of experiences with you that were particularly memorable for Evan and me and gave us some insight into good guiding qualities.  On one of our morning drives we were just about to stop for coffee and stretch our legs when we heard a monkey screeching somewhere in the trees above us.  You explained that he was sounding a predator alarm call. The first thing you told us to do was to find the monkey in the trees and see if we can tell which way he was facing – that would tell us which direction to look for the predator. The tree canopy was quite large and dense and we never got a fix on the monkey or the predator, despite making a couple of wide circles around the general area. After about 30 minutes we stopped in a wide open field for our long-awaited coffee break (“wide open” being key as we wanted to avoid anything surprising us). We had just packed up breakfast and were back in the vehicle, when Hennie van Heerden spotted a large male leopard drinking down by a water hole. The big cat was probably about 400 yards away from us. We surmised this was the guy that the monkey had probably been sounding the alarm on. New alarm bells were now going off in the form of a large herd of impala who had also just noticed the leopard. The impalas were all snorting loudly and stomping their feet in unison. I was surprised to learn from you that rather than try to run, the herd was signalling to the leopard that they were very much aware of his presence. A couple of hundred yards separated the leopard from the herd. Each stood their ground. We were able to great some great shots of the leopard before he casually moved on by.

Scratching Post - Lisa Holzwarth

Scratching Post – Lisa Holzwarth

Another leopard story with you that led to one of Evan’s all-time favorite shots (and the cover shot for The LEO Chronicles) is the afternoon we followed the Tamboti female as she headed towards the Sand riverbank, densely packed with eight foot tall reeds. The other vehicle that had also been following her gave up and turned around. You looked at us and we gave the nod to head into the reeds after her. It was tough traveling but you were able to keep up enough for Evan to catch this shot just before she slipped away. This was a bit of a costly reward, at least for you. The vehicle’s tow hitch got stuck in the unevenness of the river bed’s edge and you needed to do some serious digging to get us out. I asked what we could do to help. You were covered in sweat from all the shoveling. You said, “Stay in the vehicle but keep your eyes open for anything that might want to eat me”. That was the fastest we have ever gotten out of jam. Not only did you remain calm, but you maintained your sense of humor throughout. And I took your request very seriously about keeping my eyes open!

Tamboti Female along the Sand River, Photography by Evan Schiller

Tamboti Female along the Sand River, Photography by Evan Schiller

Late Afternoon Tamboti Female - Lisa Holzwarth

Late Afternoon Tamboti Female – Lisa Holzwarth

Lisa: What’s your favorite time of the year at Mala Mala and why?
Dean: All the time☺ sorry for the smiley face but needed to do it. Any time in the bush is good time. But if I had to pick a specific time then it would have to be spring/early summer, September to early December. It’s the first rains and the colour is starting to come back to the bush. It’s the baby boom and the bush is crawling with young antelope. The bush is still “thin” enough to make viewing good and easy for photography.

Lisa: Share your most memorable experience in the bush. What made it so special?
Dean: The most memorable experience was probably my first game drive. Just the experience and mixed feelings of excitement and nervousness. Seeing the animals at such close proximity and not having a driver’s side door is something that takes a lot of getting used to. Then all the added stresses of remembering the roads and keeping track of what is happening on the radio, it all makes for an extreme adventure.

Lisa: Please share your most memorable guest stories – funny, outrageous, stupid, whatever suits you.
Dean: Guests are as interesting as the animals, different cultures and nationalities, different beliefs and point of views always makes for interesting interactions.
Lisa: You are being way too circumspect, but you make a good point. I was hoping for a good laugh, even if it was going to be at my own expense. I did follow-up on your suggestion a couple of years ago and read Peter Allison’s “Whatever You Do, Don’t Run – Tales of a Botswana Safari Guide”. Absolutely hysterical and apparently quite true.

Lisa: You’re a great photographer. When did you get started and how have you learned the craft?
Dean: I have enjoyed photography for as long as I can remember. Taking photos at Mala Mala was a no-brainer. With the amount of time and quality of game viewing the opportunities are endless. I am mostly self-taught, reading, listening and talking to other photographers and then trying all the different techniques.

Lisa: What kind of equipment are you using today? What size lenses do you use most often?
Dean: I am still using Canon and have upgraded to a 70D and a 70 – 300mm f4 – 5.6 L lens.
Lisa: Glad to hear we are still all part of the same extended Canon family.

Lisa: What’s your favorite animal to photograph and what is its personal draw to you?
Dean: Predators are great to photograph and probably top most people’s list. Elephants are my favourite; anytime you find them they will be doing something. The texture of their skin and interactions between each other make them a fun species to photograph.

Lisa: This makes perfect sense now. I can think of a couple of elephant interactions that we had with you that were really special. There was that one afternoon drive where we found ourselves in an open field near Rattray’s Camp at dusk. The field was full of a large herd of grazing elephants. It was getting too dark to get any photographs, even at the lowest f-stop but we sat quietly as the elephants, including some of the babies, came close to check us out. You said we were very safe because it was elephants coming to us, not us inserting ourselves in their space.

I also remember a late morning drive near the bridge where a particularly inquisitive young male came very close to us, ie., he could have reached into the vehicle with his trunk. We were basically taking pictures of his eye, he was that close. It was cool to see how long an elephant’s eyelashes can be. You were focusing on his ears to gauge his mood. His ears were telling you that he was very relaxed.

Elephant Eye - Lisa Holzwarth

Elephant Eye – Lisa Holzwarth

Lisa: So please share three of YOUR favorite photos and the stories behind each of them.
Dean: This photo of a Black Rhino in full flight is one of my favourite, mainly because seeing a Black Rhino is just so special. This sighting didn’t last more than 4 or 5 minutes. We came up over a blind rise with a corner so as we crested the rise this rhino was not more than 20m from us. She jogged off behind a tree and turned around to look at us. She huffed and puffed and trotted around a little before deciding to have a go at us. She stormed us and stopped about 6 or 7m away from us and charged off into the bush.

Charging Black Rhino - Dean Wraith Photography

Charging Black Rhino – Dean Wraith Photography

This next photo was taken at Mala Mala last year. A giraffe had died in the south of the reserve and 3 lions had laid claim to it. We decided to make the long drive south and on the way down bumped into 2 male lions having a bit of stand-off. We couldn’t really see them in the thick bush. We decided to carry on to the giraffe carcass and see what was going on there. We arrived and 2 lions were busy feeding with quite a few hyenas hanging around. After about 15 minutes one of the other rangers came across the 2 males having a stand-off moving towards the giraffe. The 2 lions picked up and ran off and the 2 males arrived on the scene. Then chaos broke out, the 2 males who were from different coalitions started climbing into each other and it was a real fight. Most times it is quite a bit of vocalising and posturing, but these 2 decided to throw down properly.

Mala Mala Lion Fight - Dean Wraith Photography

Mala Mala Throw Down – Dean Wraith Photography

At one stage we had a coalition of 4 male cheetah that started moving onto Mala Mala from the north and this was the first time I had seen them active. We had a great afternoon with them mostly because there were very few vehicles out and that meant we had all the time we wanted with these four. Just as the light was getting good all 4 of these boys started getting active and were eyeing out a small herd of blue wildebeest with a few youngsters in the group. We moved ahead of the cheetahs to try and get the stalk and movement towards the herd and then hopefully a chase. These 3 sat down and it all just fell into place. The whole time they were sitting there I was trying to get the right settings and just waiting for them to get up and move. They didn’t and the subsequent shot turned out to be quite a unique composition.

Cheetah Formation - Dean Wraith Photography

Cheetah Formation – Dean Wraith Photography

Lisa: When was the Cheetah(s) photo taken? (I showed it to Evan and he was blown away). Is that coalition still around? Where was their territory? I remember you and Hennie talking about them in 2010.
Dean: It was actually taken with Hennie just a few days before you and Evan arrived. They were mainly in the north eastern section close to Kruger and then the northern parts of the Sabi Sands. From what I understand the guys haven’t seen them since early 2012. There were actually quite a few different cheetah around. Several small male coalitions and then a few females too.

Lisa: You mention the rare sighting of the black rhino and why that photo is special. From all that I have read, poaching continues to be a real threat at Kruger, so how does Mala Mala and the other contiguous reserves protect themselves against poachers? I have to say that I always felt completely safe while at Mala Mala, are the animals equally safe?
Dean: Poaching is a real threat everywhere. Rhinos are being hammered in the Kruger and it comes down to not enough man power to cover the whole area. Mala Mala and the Sabi Sands have to rely on private security companies to patrol and police the area. The biggest risk for Sabi Sands is the open boundary with the Kruger which does give quite a vast thoroughfare for poachers. From what I have read and understand rhinos are going to be moved from Kruger.
Lisa: Evan and I have gotten to know some of the individuals at Great Plains Conservation who are behind the “Rhinos without Borders” project to move rhinos from South Africa to Botswana. I got the impression that some of those expected to be moved would be from Kruger. That is definitely a good thing.

Lisa: On the topic of feeling safe, a lot of people ask me if I ever felt scared while out on a game drive, especially given that we are in open air vehicles and some of the animals come extremely close. I have always had the same response, “Never”. I think a big reason for that is the vibe we got from you. You were always paying attention to the big picture including the animals’ mood, what their ears may be communicating, were there young ones in the vicinity to protect, our ability to back-up the vehicle, etc.. This is my segue into the pro’s and con’s of carrying a rifle. At Mala Mala it is standard to have a rifle anchored to where the windshield would be. I specifically remember asking you why you only loaded three of those extremely long bullets into the rifle each morning when the barrel could, in fact, hold at least six . You responded, “if we ever have to use more than three bullets, we’ve got bigger problems to deal with…” So, have you ever had to use your rifle at Mala Mala?
Dean: I have never had to use a rifle ever, whether it be on one of my walking trails or game drives. At Mala Mala the rifles were more for when we left the vehicle to track and even then I think every ranger would agree with me that if they ever had to shoot an animal it would be the worst day of their career. I have worked at reserves since Mala Mala where we didn’t take rifles out on drive. I personally prefer not having a rifle on drive purely because you probably behave in a safer manner because you don’t have that safety net.
Lisa: That’s good to hear and makes perfect sense. In Botswana, rifles are not allowed and the guides there echoed your response – without a rifle you act smarter to avoid potential animal conflicts.

Lisa: What reserve is your own personal favorite and what makes it so?
Dean: Mala Mala is a special place and I appreciate having had the opportunity to have worked there. I love any reserve or protected area because each one offers something different, but Mala Mala would definitely top my list.

Lisa: Any particular countries or regions on your own “wish list” to visit?
Dean: My list grows and grows each and every day. Namibia is such a unique destination and the exploration opportunities are endless. The rest of the places on my list are specific to a mammal species that interests me, Gorillas in Uganda, Grizzly Bears in North America, Tigers in India, Polar Bears in Svalbard. To be terribly honest, I just love traveling and anywhere in the world I get to go would be a dream come true.

Lisa: What do you do when you’re not in the bush? What do you miss when you’re in the bush? When you are out of the bush?
Dean: I have always loved the ocean so I spend quite a bit of time fishing and just enjoying the beach. I mostly miss sport while I am in the bush. I love any sport really whether it be watching or playing. When I am not in the bush I really miss the sounds and freedom the bush gives you.

Lisa: Tell me more about the travel consultancy/agency that you have started with Victoria. Do you lead your own trips? What kind of trips do you offer?
Dean: The company is called Southern African Destinations. The idea is to lead trips all over Southern Africa (South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Mozambique and Malawi). The main focus is to tailor itineraries to what the clients’ interests are. Ideally we will travel with most clients but it is entirely up to them. Our main focus initially will be Scandinavian countries because Victoria is Swedish so she has the ability to translate and communicate with the clients.

Lisa: Share with me details about your most recent organized travel trip – how many guests and where did you go?
Dean: It was 15 people which turned out to be quite an interesting challenge in its own right. We started in Cape Town where we climbed Table Mountain, visited Robben Island and Cape Point, dived with Great White Sharks, got sea sick and did a few tours around the city. After that we drove the Garden Route and stopped off in Mossel Bay and then in Jeffrey’s Bay. Along the way we visited Cape Agulhas (most Southern tip of Africa), Storm’s River Canyon where we did some ocean kayaking and Jeffery’s Bay was an opportunity for some surfing. After that we flew to Durban and spent a few days in Salt Rock (Victoria and I live here and thought it was the perfect quiet beach/city break for the group). We did a lot of time at the beach, some deep sea fishing and went to watch a rugby game. The last few days were on safari at a place called Thanda Private Game Reserve which was great, we got the Big 5 plus Black Rhino and cheetah. All in all it was a great trip.

Lisa: Please share with us your contact information for SAND – Southern African Destinations?
Dean: My work email is dean@sandtravel.co.za and Victoria’s is victoria@sandtravel.co.za and our website is www.sandtravel.co.za and we also on Facebook at Sand – Southern AfricaN Destinations and Instagram at sandtravel.

Lisa: Thanks so much for sharing your stories, your time and your ongoing friendship. I am really excited about the creation of SAND. I know the two of you will make it a big success while enjoying some extreme adventure in the process!

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My Favorite Four-Letter Word – Nkwe

November 24, 2012 – Chobe National Park

 

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In a Tree – Photography by Evan Schiller

You know the old saying, “When given lemons, make lemonade”. My corollary in Botswana: On a rainy day in Chobe, when the leopards don’t want to play, make the best of things and learn how to say “Leopard” in Setswanese.

We continued our routine of leaving camp at 5:30am and not returning until 7pm. We definitely kept Gwist busy. No rest for our weary guide. I can only imagine if Gwist has a blog out there and what he could be writing about us… If you want to read some funny stories from a guide’s perspective, pick up “Whatever You Do, Don’t Run: True Tales of a Botswana Safari Guide” by Peter Allison. It is full of guest/guide anecdotes and from what other guides have told me, it is all too true.

 

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Standing Her Ground – Photography by Lisa Holzwarth

We chose to start our day where we left the Leopard family the night before. Fresh tracks in the road alerted us to another Leopard/Hyena encounter. Who needs video cameras when the tracks can easily tell the story – the cubs were with their Mother when confronted by the Hyena. The Mother Leopard’s nails were firmly imprinted in the ground – she was definitely taking a stand for herself and the two cubs. We also noticed that yesterday’s kill (a young adult male impala), which had previously been deep in the bush, was now high up in a nearby tree.

We didn’t see any of the cats so decided to do one of our loops and look for more tracks along the way. Their kill was safely in the tree so we were confident the trio was relatively close. We returned about 30 minutes later to find the leopards out and another vehicle watching the action. We stayed here for the balance of the day, only taking a break for lunch at President’s Camp.

 

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Battling the Kill – Photography by Evan Schiller

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Dinner in a Tree – Photography by Evan Schiller

Given that we technically could not go off-road for closer viewing and photography, we were fortunate that the leopards had decided to pull this impala up a tall tree located at a crossroads of sorts, so we had two different angles from which we could potentially shoot. Most visitors take time midday for a siesta of sorts (which is also a quiet time for the big cats given the heat of the day), but we stayed put and took the opportunity to “abandon the law” and move a little closer to our subjects (even the Park Rangers take a siesta). Unfortunately, the leopards weren’t particularly cooperative, choosing to stay deep in the shade of the bush or up in the tree.

 

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“Chameleon” – Photography by Lisa Holzwarth

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Siesta Perspective – Photography by Lisa Holzwarth

We passed the time in the rain learning the Setswana names for the all the animals we had been fortunate to see and photograph. Anyone who looks at my journal will get a laugh out of the phonetic spelling that I also included for each name so that I would remember how to correctly pronounce the names of so many of these magnificent creatures. My friend Alison Nicholls, the wildlife artist who lived in Botswana for a number of years, may correct me on some of these, but this is what my ear heard at the time…

Lion – Tau (sounds like “tao ooh”)

Leopard – Nkwe (sounds like “uun kway” – with a long A)

Hyena – Phiri (sounds like “peer re” – with a long E on the second syllable)

Elephant – Tlou (sounds like either “toe” or proper name “cloow” with long o)

Giraffe – Thutwa (sounds like “two twa” with soft a)

Warthog – Kolobe (sounds like “koo lou bay” with a long a)

Baboon – Tshwene (sounds like “sTwen nee” with a long e on second syllable)

Hippo- Kubu (sounds like “koo boo”)

Porcupine – Noko (sounds like “no koo” with a long o on first syllable)

Zebra – Pitse ya naga (sounds like “peek e ahnaha” with soft e on second syllable)

Wildebeest – Kgokong (sounds like “co co nay”)

Wild Dog – Matlharelwa (sounds like “ma tah less wah”)

The afternoon brought a different sort of Phiri, of the “four-wheeled” variety, into our life. It felt like all the vehicles in Chobe were stopping to see “our” leopards. We got a very heavy downpour that afternoon which ultimately cleared out all the Phiri. I was happy for the Tlou and the other grazers.

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Sunsetting Flock – Photography by Lisa Holzwarth

 

 

Dr. Seuss and Why Elephants are Even Smarter than You Think

November 15 – Morning Game Drive – Selinda

Dawn Patrol

Dawn Patrol – Lisa Holzwarth

We started the morning by reacquainting ourselves with “the Huntress”, ie., Leopard #3, and followed her as she casually made her way along her dawn patrol route.  She was a great poser – no action per se, but she really worked the camera.

Vantage Point

Vantage Point – Lisa Holzwarth

Daughter of Selinda - Photography by Evan Schiller

Daughter of Selinda – Photography by Evan Schiller

Even while on Safari, golf is not far from Evan’s thoughts – note the insignia on his broad rimmed hat!  We stopped at the Hippo pool for a little tea/coffee  break – catching Evan in the rare moment when he doesn’t have a camera in his hand.

Evan Schiller - the "Master(s)" Photographer

Evan Schiller – the “Master(s)” Photographer

It was only moments later when he decided to position himself closer to the water and get cozy with some of his buddies prior to their delicate “synchronized swimming” routine.  In retrospect, one of the more civilized encounters we had with these big guys.

Tea for Two - Lisa Holzwarth

Tea for Two – Lisa Holzwarth

After the Hippo Pool, we continued on our trek, coming across a number of zebra.  Their unique markings are amazing and the patterns , especially when standing next to each other really made my eyes work overtime to grasp their complexity.  The Zebra and its stripes remind me of a Dr. Seuss quote, “Today you are You, that is truer than true.  There is no one alive who is Youer than You”.

"Nowhere to Hide" or "Know where to Hide"? - Lisa Holzwarth

“Nowhere to Hide” or “Know where to Hide”?

Now to the take-away of the morning for me.  Isaac took us through a beautiful Mopane grove and gave us an elephant ecology lesson.  The leaves of the Mopane trees are shaped like butterfly wings and are a big source of nutrition for the elephants.  The adult female elephants are very conscientious arborists – they eat from the top of the Mopane tree to ensure that the trees don’t grow too high so as to become out of reach for the baby elephants and other grazers that seek its nourishment.  By eating the Mopane from the top, the adult female elephants force the tree to sprout and grow more branches and fresh leaves thicker and lower to the ground.  This was an amazing thing to witness – this Mopane grove looked like a humanly cultivated orchard or vineyard – amazing that the horticulturalists were elephants!  Keeping to my Dr. Seuss thread, the female elephants actions and intentions remind me of the Lorax quote – “Unless someone like you cares a whole awful lot, Nothing is going to get better.  It’s not.”.

As much as the females impressed me with their horticultural prowess , the males are a whole other story… while the females make a point of protecting and nurturing the trees, the males are all about knocking them down.  I guess we can’t blame them too much – the males are pushed out of their herd when they are only about 12 years old (which is pretty young in elephant years).  It’s kind of like kicking your teenage boy out of the house before he’s gone through puberty and before he’s learned more than the most basic of manners.  In addition to not learning proper tree-trimming techniques from their mothers, these young males soon find themselves needing to prove themselves around the other sub-adult males they are now forced to hang with.  Proving oneself usually involves determining who has the greatest brute strength and what better way to prove brute strength than your ability to knock down trees – the bigger the better.  Unfortunately this bad behavior has the tendency to grow exponentially – one male knocks down a tree to prove himself, only to have another male knock down a larger tree to prove himself – you can see how this escalates.  And then, factor in the testosterone surge when these big guys go into musth – you thought human females had hormonal issues…  These big guys can become downright aggressive and quite destructive during musth – and besides, everybody is laughing at you because it looks like you have five legs.  (I regret that I did not get a picture of this beautiful Mopane forest because what we experienced in Savute was the antithesis of this situation – more about that later).

The Mother of all Tree-huggers – Lisa Holzwarth

“See Isaac Jump” or “What do a Black Mamba and Hippo have in Common?”

Isaac Seredile

Isaac Seredile

These two incidents happened on separate occasions, but I have to give Isaac a little bit of good-natured ribbing…

I’ll preface the stories by saying that when Evan and I share our Africa travel experiences with friends, we are inevitably asked, “Weren’t you afraid of (you name the animal) the lion or leopard jumping in the vehicle? the hyena choosing to snap your arm off?, the elephant or hippo charging the vehicle?, etc., etc., etc…”  And to be perfectly honest, I’ve never considered myself to be an uber-brave individual, so why do I always emphatically say “No, I wasn’t afraid”?  It’s ALL because of the guides.  I put my full faith and trust in these people, and, oh by the way, my life.   It’s not that Isaac, or any of his compatriots, are dosed with some extra machismo (well, maybe a little), nor are they carrying a gun (not allowed in Botswana) – so why do I feel so safe?  Bottom-line, they are smart and they never stop paying attention to our surroundings – so there is little chance they’ll be surprised.  One guide shared with us on a previous trip when asked the question about how he deals with not being able to carry a rifle – the clear answer was “a rifle can make you cocky, without the rifle you learn to avoid a problem before it becomes one”.  I think we all could take that to heart…

Anyway, back to Isaac.  Evan and I always ask our guides if there is any animal or reptile that they are afraid of.  It gives us a little glimpse into their inner workings.  And if a guide ever said that they weren’t afraid of ANYthing, that’s when I would be concerned.  So, one morning on our way out of camp, we asked Isaac if there was any animal he didn’t like.  Very quickly, he said “Snakes”.  Evan and I immediately hatched a plan – I was sitting right behind Isaac so played an integral role in the scheme.  Evan launched into the story that we had been told by another guide in Duba two years earlier.  Evan does a great job really enrolling the listener in the story – ultimately achieving the greatest emotive response possible.  In the story “Solly” is driving along a road with a thick overhang of tree branches and finds himself with a Black Mamba (one of the most deadly African snakes) in his lap after the vehicle’s tall roof knocks it from the trees.  Just as Isaac is taking this all in, I run my fingers along his neck trying to mimic the feel of a snake falling from a tree.  I was so focused on getting my timing right with Evan’s story that I failed to notice that Isaac had just lifted his cup of morning coffee when I “made like a snake”.  Isaac practically jumped out of the vehicle, but in such a controlled fashion that he did not spill one bit of his coffee (and he wasn’t using a travel cup!).  I remain in awe of his incredible control.

My second story involves a much larger, but just as deadly creature – the Hippo.  And in retrospect, I think I was getting a little payback for making fun of a guest on a previous evening who was petrified to be walking in the darkness after dinner.  One of the cardinal rules in Africa is that once the sun goes down, you don’t walk anywhere by yourself.  The guides are responsible for taking you safely to and from your tent.  One evening after dinner I was walking with one of the guides who was escorting me and a young Italian woman back to our neighboring tents.  Selinda is right on the spillway so there are always hippos in close proximity (sometimes their snorting is so loud it’s hard to sleep at night).  The young Italian woman was visibly frightened and waving her flashlight in all different directions as she scoured the darkness for danger.  In the midst of this “light show” she asked the guide if the hippos were asleep (hoping against hope) and was visibly distressed when the guide told her that this is the time, in fact, when they got very active… Needless to say after that, her “light show” became even more frantic.

Anyway, my payback ultimately included Isaac and Evan because as we were returning from dinner on the next night, we came face to face with a hippo (we found ourselves in the unfortunate position of coming between the hippo and his precious water).  The resident hippo around our tent had decided to venture a little further from the water a little earlier than usual and we startled him as much as he “startled” us.  (FYI- we were staring right into his eyes – and if we were staring into his, you know he couldn’t miss us!).  Isaac was one step ahead and stopped us in our tracks before we fully “engaged” the grass-munching multi-ton beast.  He finally gave us the all clear and told us to run – which we most certainly did.  Isaac took his own meandering route back to camp to avoid another surprise encounter.  Ah, just another day in the life of a safari guide…

Kealeboaga, Isaac!

How Many Leopards Does It Take to Fill a Memory Card?

November 14 – Afternoon Game Drive – Selinda

Trick question really, our memory cards have a funny way of getting full no matter how many leopards are in our line of focus.

Still on an adrenaline rush from our morning drive, Isaac probably could have gotten away with giving us a front row seat at some dung beetle races, but he maintained his A-game, so we were fortunate to find our 4th and 5th leopards in a span of 48 hours.  Leopard #4 was an 8 or 9-year old female and her cub (#5) was a 5-6 month old female.  The mother, very considerately, was posing in a bare tree (making it very helpful for getting some good shots without having to deal with the challenges of big green leaves). Ironically, she looks considerably more comfortable than I usually feel on my road bike.

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Photography by Lisa Holzwarth

The Mother had left a kill on the ground for her young cub, but the cub was nowhere in sight.

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Spider Woman or Cat Woman? – Photography by Lisa Holzwarth

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Mother Leopard Taste-testing her Kill – Photography by Evan Schiller

We spent the afternoon waiting it out for the little one and were finally rewarded with the appearance of this very shy cub who took a very circuitous route to and up the tree where her mother had ultimately moved the kill in preparation for some night-time feasting. During our wait we enjoyed a visit from an elephant troop as they passed through (and very close) to our vehicle.  If I say this once, I will say it a thousand times, I love finishing the day with the elephants.  These huge lumbering giants have an incredible peacefulness that permeates the space.  I think all world leaders should spend time with the elephants.

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Evan captured a wonderful silhouette of the young cub leaping from one branch to another just after the sun had set.  He always finds a way to get that last great shot!

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I made an attempt to get a broader silhouette and if you look closely you can see the cub in the center of my shot making its way toward its dinner – Bon Appetit mon cheri!

Dancing in the Moonlight - Photography by Lisa Holzwarth

Dancing in the Moonlight – Photography by Lisa Holzwarth

Living in the Moment

November 14 – Morning Game Drive – Selinda

Before I start reliving November 14th (which was the penultimate day of the entire trip for us) I hope you will allow me a bit of a retrospective.  It has been just over a month since I last posted, and I came up with a ton of excuses for myself behind the delay.  In the last few weeks I have been grappling with some challenging news concerning two of my dearest friends and I am trying to get my arms around it all.  I went for a long walk in the “tundra” which is what Connecticut feels like in the winter when compared to summer in Botswana.  I saw a beautiful red-tail hawk soaring, a very confused blue bird who appeared as frustrated with the cold as I was, and three white-tailed deer loping through the snow.  In the midst of all this I found some coyote tracks and had a bit of fun determining that they were at least a day old because last night’s dusting of snow lay on top of the original tracks.  Anyway, I laughed that my training with Isaac in the sands of Africa can even be applied in frozen Connecticut.  At the end of my walk I wasn’t any closer to overcoming the sadness that I started my walk with, but I know that I had become that much more appreciative of life’s beauty, in all its forms and that includes its fragility… Ironically, our morning game drive on November 14th left me with the same message…

And fyi, there will be no more excuses.

My version of C.S. Lewis’ “The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe” is called “The Leopard, the Hyenas, the Baboons and the Lionesses” and while this was not Narnia, I found it just as magical.

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Great way to start the morning – Lisa Holzwarth

We were the first vehicle out, again, at 5:40am.  We headed right back to Leopard #3 that we had seen late yesterday.  She was only five minutes from camp and we discovered that she had made yet another kill – this time a reedbok.  No sooner had we spent some time photographing her, we saw two hyenas racing in our direction (really in the direction of the dead reedbok – they had no interest in us).   The leopard took cover in a nearby tree as the hyenas feasted on her fresh kill.  I have to admit that I am not an adoring fan of the hyena and have never found them particularly attractive, but I am quite pleased with these head-shots and think I may have captured a bit of their wild beauty.

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Hyena Headshots – Lisa Holzwarth

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No really, this is my best side – Lisa Holzwarth

We spent a bit of time with the hyenas as they devoured the reedbok and then turned our attention once again on the leopard in the dead tree.  In the midst of watching her we were surprised by her sudden decision to leave the tree and dive for deep cover.  We were a bit disappointed that she was now out of camera range but Isaac told us to keep our eyes open, as she must have seen something that scared her enough to move from the safety of her tree.  Remember, she was in a dead tree, so anyone or anything could easily see her from a distance.  From our vantage point, this still didn’t make a lot of sense – the leopard is the only big cat who climbs, and leopards usually find safety in trees… but then we heard the baboons!  There was a troop of 30-40 baboons heading in our general direction making a lot of noise (and fyi, baboons and leopards are deadly enemies – I have heard guides talk about adult male baboons and adult male leopards each fighting to the death).  The baboons settled on another “island” of trees a safe distance from the leopard.  Then the baboons started screaming – again, we had no idea the reason, but from their elevated position in the trees they had a much better vantage point to take in the overall surroundings.  Isaac quickly drove us to the troop and said again, keep your eyes open, they are sounding the predator alarm.

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Up a tree with no place to go – Lisa Holzwarth

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Waiting at the bottom of the same tree, with all the time in the world – Lisa Holzwarth

No sooner had he said this, two lionesses came out of the tall grass and rushed the baboons in the trees, only to be joined by two more lionesses.   Between the baboons shrieking and the lionesses communicating with deep guttural roars, it was a mad scene.  The baboons were safe in the trees but still were anxious about the lions clawing on the trunks.  Evan and Isaac felt certain that with all the bedlam, someone was going to lose their cool and do something stupid and it wasn’t long before three of the baboons decided to “make a run for it”.   The three were focused on another set of trees a few hundred yards away.  As soon as the lionesses noticed the escapees, a chase pursued and we followed close behind.  Two of the three found the nearby treetops, but the third was grabbed as it tried scaling the tree.  Did I say three baboons – my mistake, as the third baboon lay dying on the ground, we noticed a little baby (less than a month old) slowly disengaging from its mother’s dying body.  Despite its young age, I was amazed to see how instinct so quickly kicked in that it immediately tried to find safety in a tree.  Unfortunately it did not know how to do this quickly or quietly.  While its instinct was good, it hadn’t yet mastered speed or agility.  At this point the lionesses noticed the “little guy”.  They were obviously intrigued, but did not go for the “kill” which would have taken less than a nano-second if they had been so inclined.  The baby and one of the lionesses engaged in the African version of BIG cat and mouse game which we have watched countless numbers of times with our own domestic cats and their catches of mice, moles and chipmunks.  The baby was jumping up and down screaming and hitting the lioness on her nose.  The lioness was gently knocking the baby off the trunk of the tree every time it seemed to make a little bit of progress in its vertical attempt of escape.  Finally the lioness carried the baby in its mouth (really at that moment she could have swallowed it whole without a blink of an eye) and put it down on the ground in front of her.  What happened next blew our minds – the baby, in another instinctual moment, held onto the lioness’ chest and tries to suckle… Evan’s pictures say it all.  (As for my pictures, I had pulled a typical amateur move and had forgotten to recheck my settings when this whirlwind of action occurred so a lot of my pics are overexposed until I had a moment of clarity and made the appropriate adjustments.)

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Photography by Evan Schiller

 

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Photography by Evan Schiller

Photography by Evan Schiller

Photography by Evan Schiller

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Photography by Evan Schiller

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Photography by Evan Schiller

I should clarify that while I said the lioness was being “gentle”, she was being as gentle as a 350 pound cat can be with a 3 or 4 pound baby baboon.  The baby was showing signs of physical harm and fatigue from the whole ordeal.  After allowing the baby to “suckle” for a bit, the lioness again picked the baby up in her mouth – I was in agony watching the baby’s ordeal – and kept on turning off the video option on my camera because I it was hard to record.

Saved by the bell (of sorts)…  just at that moment when we thought the baby’s odds were dwindling, the lioness was distracted – this time by two male lions.  Enter stage right the two brothers we had photographed the previous morning.  We initially thought (as did the lionesses) that the boys were interested in the dead baboon (which no one had paid much attention to since its killing).  The big boys made a half-hearted attempt to check out the dead baboon, but we ultimately figured out that they were much more interested in “checking-out” the ladies themselves.  Evan caught a couple of great shots where the lionesses made it very clear how they felt about the boys – NOT.

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Photography by Evan Schiller

Back to the baby baboon – with the lionesses busy trying to ward off the amorous advances of the brothers, the Big Male Baboon, which had been trying to no avail to rescue the baby all the while, was now able to climb down the tree, grab the baby and then head back up for safety.  Unfortunately, he chose a dead tree, so while that was good for our photography, he soon felt the heat of the sun.  I was touched by how gently the Father Baboon held this little baby who was in tough shape after its ordeal.  The baby’s body appeared limp and we thought it had succumbed.  Isaac told us that if that was the case, the Father would most likely still hold the baby for a few days before finally letting go.  After watching these human-like emotions and actions, it’s pretty hard to doubt Mr. Darwin and his theories.

Photography by Evan Schiler

Photography by Evan Schiler

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Loving Arms – Lisa Holzwarth

With the heat of the morning sun getting stronger by the minute, the Father Baboon had to make a move.  Holding the baby, in all sorts of contorted positions, he tried numerous times to climb down the tree.  He tested the lionesses’ interest with each descent.  Finally, the combination of daring courage and the lionesses own desire to take cover in some shade allowed him to find safety and a little peace in the shade of a neighboring tree.

And what happened to the baby?  I like to think that the little guy survived with the help of his troop.  He was alive and safe in his father’s arms when we left and that’s how I like to remember it.  No matter what, he remains an inspiration to me – and a reminder, that life is fragile and no matter how much I fight to control its outcome, I am at the mercy of the universe.  All we can do is live in the moment.

And all of this happened in two and a half hours….

Botswana Safari 2012 – First Leg: Zarafa

Let me preface my notes with an apology that it has taken 2+ weeks to get this out.  I have decided to spread out my posts on the trip over a couple of days.  I am also combining my notes from each camp as a single post to keep the flow going.  Of course I am including some of Evan’s photography to make the posts that much more interesting and don’t be surprised if I happen to occasionally slip one of my own photos in.  Enjoy!

November 9, 2012

Delayed in Johannesburg so arrived late into Maun, Botswana.  Discovered that we had been transferred onto Wilderness Air and that our bags were WAY OVER the proscribed weight limit of 20 KGs per person (fyi, our two camera bags alone each weighed 14.5 Kg’s).  We had to buy another seat on another plane for one of our duffles to be sent the next day.  Lesson #1: the air charters are now very serious about weight limits, which was not the case not two years ago.  Lesson #2: We both could travel with less!  Still not sure if we will ever get down to 20 Kg’s but our over/under should be much closer – this may result in carrying only cameras and a toothbrush on our next trip!

We no longer had a direct flight to Selinda/Zarafa, rather, we had become the fourth and last stop.  We were tired, hot and a bit frazzled.  Frazzled enough to leave Evan’s monopod on the little plane, only realizing that we were without it as we saw the plane flying away from us and as we learned, over to Kasane.  In an attempt to radio the pilot (no luck), Pete at the concession learned of our problem and lent us his monopod.  Hopefully ours will find its way back to us in the next few days….  In the meantime – thank you Pete!

November 9, 2012 – Day 1 – Afternoon Game Drive

Fresh Sage – it’s the first thing I smell when we got off the plane – it is intoxicating and welcoming.

Not ones for wasting time, we asked our guide, Reuben, if you could start our game drive immediately.  Pete met us at a crossroad with his monopod – and we were off….

First sighting – the rare Roan Antelope.  I really liked the setting, amongst some tall, fine golden airy grasses.

Roan Antelope, Zarafa, Photography by Evan Schiller

Roan Antelope, Zarafa, Photography by Evan Schiller

Went on to see some very full and very tired Wild Dogs.  18 in the pack, 10 adults and 8 youngsters.  FYI, a pack is considered large at 30+ animals.

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Wild Dog, Zarafa, Photography by Lisa Holzwarth

Baby Elephant (probably 1-2 days old) with mother.

Selinda Pride, saw five of them (there are a total of 14).  Everyone we saw was quite tired.

November 10, 2012 – Day 2 – Morning Game Drive

Left camp at 5:40am and didn’t return until close to noon.  Had breakfast out in the bush around 10:30am: Poached eggs, fresh fruit and an amazing gluten-free nectarine cake that I must get the recipe for from the Chef, Katherine.  Evan can’t stop talking about it.

First order of business, the Selinda Pride had rejoined forces this morning with the team of five and nine were now one again.  Watched an unsuccessful attempt at the pride to ambush some Wildebeests, but unfortunately, for the lions anyway, their timing was off and they missed their opportunity.  Fortunately we didn’t miss our opportunity and got some great shots of them playing after their failed hunting attempt, as well as ultimately coming to rest atop a mound just prior to a rainstorm blowing through.  Really great shot of two lionesses with the backdrop of the dark storm clouds and surrounded by the green sage brush.

Lions & Storm, Zarafa, Photography by Lisa Holzwarth

Lions & Storm, Zarafa, Photography by Lisa Holzwarth

Have never had much opportunity to shoot zebra and finally a few really cooperated for the camera.  Evan got some great shots, which are already included in my new 2012 favorites list.

Zarafa Zebra, Photography by Evan Schiller

Zarafa Zebra, Photography by Evan Schiller

Day 2 – Afternoon Game Drive

Elephants, Zebra, Warthogs

Saw the younger group of lions (10) as they lounged.  Most of them looked like they had full bellies. 6 males and 4 females.  We believe that two of these youngsters are the two of the three little 3 month old cubs that Evan and I got a chance to watch two years ago at Selinda!  The boys are just starting to grow their manes.

Reuben gave us the story of the Selinda Pride of 14.  The Pride is strong because they have a group of young males that have not yet been forced out of the Pride by a dominant male (not counted in the 14).  The dominant male isn’t strong enough to really hold the Pride together.  The Pride splits up and comes back together a lot as a maneuver to avoid the dominant male pushing out the young 3 year-old males.

We saw the group of 10 as it was getting dark and they were on their way to meet up again with the group of 4.  They went off road as the last rays of light were disappearing.

No Dogs today.

Selinda Pride – has learned to cope with a changing landscape.  Interestingly, that includes more water, not less.  The old runway that we had landed on two years ago is now a flood plain.  The changing water dynamic has caused shifts in the animals’ movements – 2011 was a big transition year, not only for the lions, but for all the other animals in the hierarchical food chain.  Since 2008 the Wild Dogs were denning not far from Zarafa but they moved closer to Selinda in 2011 after the changes in the water levels – there is much more water here today than four years ago.  Note to Self: Need to learn more about this changing environment.

Zarafa Camp – This is an amazing camp, conceptualized by Dereck and Bevery Joubert, and built in 2008.  The intention was to make this very luxurious camp eco-friendly and a model for how safari camps can and should be run.  They have electricity 24/7 which is derived completely from solar power.  Zarafa has served as a role model for others and now there are at least seven other camps in Africa that can say they derive all their power from solar energy. There is no waste – everything gets recycled.  The bio-gas fuel is created from food waste and buffalo dung (they discovered that elephant dung is just too dry).  There is only limited plastic use and all is recycled.  The tropical hardwood furniture is made from wooden debris found after the Asian Tsunami and crafted by displaced Asian carpenters.  The teak floors of the camps are old railway sleepers (railroad ties) from Zimbabwe and the glassware is made from recycled coke bottles in Swaziland.  They are also very intentional about how they drive on the dirt roads to make sure that the driving is as low-impact to the environment as possible – by this I mean that if two vehicles are coming towards each other from opposite directions they do not suddenly create two lanes (thereby increasing the width of the dirt road, rather, one will back up at a 90 degree angle to the road, let the other pass, and then be on their way).  This may sound like a waste of time for those of us used to multi-lane highways, but the intention is to leave the land untouched whenever and wherever possible.  Not only should more camps ecologically follow suit, I hope the rest of the world takes notice and starts changing how we derive our energy (and, at the same time, recognize how we so casually waste it.)

Willem and Nienke Bakhuys Roozeboom are fabulous in their role as the Zarafa Camp managers. Their passion and love of the bush and the people come through the minute you meet them.  I was particularly impressed with their intention to make sure the entire staff was provided with a greater context for the role that each plays in making Zarafa such a positive experience for all involved.

Two books that Willem and Nienke suggested and I have now put them on my 2013 reading list: “Cry of the Kalahari” and “Eye of the Elephant”.

November 11, 2012 – Day 3 – Morning Game Drive

Really special morning!  Woke up to our second alarm clock (the young baboons jumping off the tree limbs onto our tent and using it as a trampoline – and, they are incredibly punctual).

When we walked over to the central tent at 5:15am, Newman motioned us to follow him to see a sleeping elephant who had made his way into camp a few hours earlier and was sound asleep on his side in the middle of camp!  He is about 40 years old and, believe it or not, he snores.  I took a video and Evan got some pics, both of us deciding it was best to let the sleeping giant enjoy his slumber.  He was up a few minutes later though and apparently stayed in camp until about 9am.  Yes, that is me getting a “close-up” of our snoozing friend.

Sleeping Elie, Zarafa, Photography by Evan Schiller

Sleeping Elie, Zarafa, Photography by Evan Schiller

No dogs, no cats, but lots of tracks.

Pre-Afternoon Game Drive Excitement

I had just finished taking an outdoor shower while watching the hippos play.  I turned the corner of our deck and found an elephant in our small “yard”.  I called out to Evan to make sure he was aware of our visitor.  We were blown away by the gracefulness of this multi-ton animal.  The elephant came up close to the tent (I’m talking just feet away) and found a way to squeeze himself between the wire strut and a tree situated at the base of the deck.  We were afraid he was going to snap the wire which held up one corner of the tent but as soon as his trunk and left shoulder felt the wire we noticed how delicately he maneuvered his couple tons of body mass around the taunt wire without even shaking the tent –as Evan pointed out we had just witnessed some amazing “low-wire” acrobatics.  As soon as our new friend had finished his tight-wire act we became aware of more activity coming from beyond our tent towards us, yes, more elephants, including a handful of young ones (perhaps around 2 years old – where, believe me, the mothers are still VERY protective).  We took a bit of our own videos and then realized that we were going to be late for our Afternoon Game Drive.  Evan ventured out first and came face to face with a Mother Elie and her young one.  She gave him a bit of charge to express her anger.  Then I joined the commotion, which pissed her off again.  She jumped around enough to make me jump and I ran back to our tent (and let’s be real, a tent really doesn’t offer a whole lot of “protection” from an angry elephant.  Evan reminded me later of the African mantra which is now FIRMLY in my head, “Whatever you do, don’t run!”.  This is also the title of a great book written by Peter Allison which has lots of funny stories about his time as a guide in Africa.  I highly recommend it – at the very least you will appreciate what the guides have to occasionally put up with from a guest perspective.

When the coast finally cleared, we found our way back to the main tent/deck and witnessed the parade of elephants (at least 40 and of all sizes) play in the water in front of us before heading on their way.

Day 3 – Afternoon Game Drive

Another quiet drive, felt like we drove to Angola and back.  Lots of elephants, learned that there are probably 9,000 to 11,000 in this concession (10 years ago there were only 500-5,000 – it is hard to estimate because there is not a lot of available data.  The area had also been very dry for many years, in addition, the Motswiri Camp nearby had at one time been a hunting camp so elephants did not feel safe.)

Found lion tracks, but no lions.  Found cheetah tracks, but no cheetah.  Ultimately found a second pack of five Wild Dogs as it was getting dusk.  When the lions move, it forces the Dogs to also move (and basically everything else in the food chain).  The Dogs made an attempt at a small herd of impala.  Rather than charging through the brush, Reuben correctly anticipated where the impala would come out and we were waiting there for them, soon to be followed by the Dogs.  But the impala prevailed, at least on this go-round.  It was getting dark and we started the 45-minute drive home.

November 12, 2012 – Morning Game Drive

Our bags were packed and we headed out on or close to our scheduled 5:30am departure time.   We had decided to combine our morning game drive with our ride over to Selinda Camp.  Very quickly, Reuben identified fresh large male lion tracks nearby.  We tracked as best we could until Reuben determined that the large male had gone off-road.  I give Evan big points for seeing the lion first (he has also been very good at identifying lots of termite mounds and logs as sleeping cats over the past few days, but this time he really did see a lion!)

The “Namibian Male”, as this lion is referred to, has been in the territory since April.  He is about 9.5 years old and is estimated to weigh approximately 230 kg’s.  He has mated with the four females (mother and three daughters) – previously he was seen in the Kwando area.

Nambian Male, Zarafa, Photography by Lisa Holzwarth

Nambian Male, Zarafa, Photography by Lisa Holzwarth

We did see large male cheetah tracks, but unfortunately no cheetah.

The Death March – Over the course of the morning drive, Evan started looking quite pale – he was coming down with some sort of flu – fever, nausea, chills, achy muscles.  He ended up lying in the back seat of the vehicle as we plodded along towards Selinda.  He was covered in an insulated poncho despite the heat of the day.  It kind of looked like we had wrapped a dead body in the back of the truck… We stopped a number of times to let him rest in the shade because the bounciness of the back seat was only making him feel worse.  I started wondering if he had somehow contracted malaria or dengue fever or some other deadly disease from a long list that my mother had been worrying about since long before we left.  The guide reassured me that Evan did not have malaria because it takes about seven days to incubate and we had only been in the bush for three – and besides, he had been taking his Artemisinin AND we were in a “Malaria Free Zone”.  FYI for those of you who do not know much about malaria – malaria is passed on by mosquitoes, but a mosquito has to bite a person already infected by malaria and THEN bite you.  What the camps do in a “Malaria Free Zone” is if anyone on staff somehow comes down with Malaria they are quarantined and then removed from camp until they recover, therefore it is much more difficult to for guests to get sick.  Bottom-line, we got to Selinda and put Evan to bed for the afternoon.  He forced himself up for the afternoon game drive but felt like he had the starring role in “The Walking Dead”.  I went to dinner by myself and made note of the fact that there was an English Doctor counted amongst the guests and if we needed his services we could always ask.  I also reminded myself that Tony and Michelle Pisacano would be arriving tomorrow afternoon (Tony is a eye doctor) – of course when I told Tony and Michelle that I had taken some solace in knowing that Tony could come to Evan’s medical rescue – Tony said to me, “What am I going to do except give him some eye drops!!”.  Bottom-line, the next day Evan was pretty much back to his old self – basically he had come down with a 24-hour flu bug.  And it is amazing what some good leopard tracking does to raise one’s spirits…